London calling

11:51am Friday 29th February 2008

London Fashion Week is traditionally the stomping ground for emerging new talent, but this time around it was all about celebrating old-school design.

The fashion pack revelled in Vivienne Westwood's return to London after a nine-year absence to show her Red Label collection.

Fellow established brands on the block - Jaeger, Betty Clark and Ossie Clark - also wowed the crowds with their dazzling creations.

From young talent to high street giants and designer institutions, London Fashion Week displayed diversity to the max this February.

We may all be flinging out our winter wardrobes for the new season but witness what the designers have in store for next autumn/winter.

BIBA Ruffles were all over the LFW catwalks and Biba was no exception. A collection focused on sumptuous evening wear, it featured mini-length cocktail dresses (not for those shy about their legs) crafted from layered organza, while others were all about voluminous bubble hems.

Embellishment and embroidery provided key detailing and the colour palette included rich shades of teal, fuchsia, indigo, grey and black.

Cone-shaped hats and elbow-length gloves in leather or wool gave outfits a quirky twist.

PPQ Celebrities aplenty lined the front rows of PPQ's jam-packed show. From Lily Allen to the Geldof sisters Pixie and Peaches, this label has star kudos.

PPQ sent out a procession of stage-worthy hits to delight the celeb audience. Multi-coloured stripe prom dresses, a blue-toned tri-colour oversized cardigan and cropped leather jackets trimmed in PPQ badges were real crowd-pleasers.

Full puffball skirts and block colour jumpsuits added to the party mood.

AQUASCUTUM Aquascutum paraded no fewer than 23 coats down the catwalk. From military-style trenches to sophisticated swing jackets, coats in varying colours and styles were belted or buttoned up to display their full potential.

The show's second half revealed the ensembles lurking underneath, from romantic bustier dresses to bright block-colour frocks, there was a coat and dress to satisfy all tastes.

BETTY JACKSON Glitter caps and bibs provided a sparkling contrast to Jackson's big knits and cocoon-shaped coats. Models took to the catwalk in vibrant autumnal hues of mustard yellow, red and blue.

Roll-neck jumpers were worn tucked into full, pleated skirts or smart stirrup pants, while dresses looked fabulously fashionable worn over layered knits. Super-bright arm warmers and ribbed tights provided further colour contrast.

BASSO AND BROOK Bland is not a word associated with Basso and Brook. From oversized egg-shaped hats to exaggerated ruffle dresses, the design duo played with proportions to please the crowd.

Using an urban cityscape' theme, giant puffs, sharp angles and extra large layers provided all the drama. A collection that did not conform to drab colours, Basso and Brook ditched black in favour of prints, colour and super-bright tights.

ELEY KISHIMOTO A colour explosion on the catwalk, Eley Kishimoto's designs were more from a divine spring/summer season. The cute collection, entitled Bonnie Bunny, included scores of shift dresses in harlequin prints and vibrant patterns.

PAUL SMITH He may have put the preppy into 2008's spring/ summer season, but Paul Smith's latest collection was more screen siren than Harry Potter. It was a mix of masculine tailoring, rose print dresses and gorgeous knits in bright green and orange, placed against his signature stripes.

Jackie O-style print headscarves are sure to catch on.

Fuchsia pinks, canary yellows and eye-popping purples all made an appearance.

JAEGER LONDON Jaeger London took to the catwalk at LFW for the first time in the label's 125-year history.

Fashionistas certainly deemed it worth the wait, awed by turquoise python prints, fuzzy-felt wool knits and shaggy Mongolian bomber jackets.

A distinct 60s and 70s vibe reined on the runway, with geometric prints, billowing blouses and fringe detailing.

JASPER CONRAN Timeless pieces with sleek, minimalist design gave Jasper Conran's catwalk its usual classic touch.

A rare runway that was devoid of heels, models stepped down the catwalk in flat pumps and ribbed tights, that provided a shock of colour to an otherwise safe palette.

Monochrome pieces defined by clean, crisp lines opened the collection, followed by a sprinkling of block colour in jewel green and dusty pink shades.

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