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5:06pm Friday 21st December 2007
The White Horse in Forest Hill, Oxford, has been transformed from an abysmal pub where karaoke and lager reigned supreme into a magical place you actually want to go and eat.
The menu is Thai, but not pub Thai or gastro Thai, just good, honest, fresh Thai food made by Thais. And instead of an identikit refit, the walls have been whitewashed, the curtains and seating replaced and an air of calm prevails where chip fat and parrot droppings had triumphed.
And the food is fabulous. Not only this, but the lunchtime £5 for two courses defies belief. If I lived nearby I'd eat there every day. And my friend, who does, went on Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday last week, so there.
The barbecues are legendary, the locals totally besotted and the menu is simple but satisfying.
The freshness of the food was demonstrated when I asked if my favourite Tom Kha soup was on the lunch menu, the manager smiled and said: "No, but don't worry, we'll make it up for you instead."
And the creamy coconut soup he served was as delicious as ever.
The green curry that followed was served with rice in two little bowls and was also sensational. They don't do dessert but what they do do they do brilliantly.
The White Horse, Forest Hill. 01865 873927.
One of the pictures on this page gives a good impression of the delights to be enjoyed at the Mole and Chicken on one of those sunny days that now seem as far as can be from our present situation.
Next week is The Oxford Times Wine Club Christmas Tasting and, with just four weeks to go until Christmas Day, it is an excellent opportunity to sample a specially-selected range of wines for the festive season.
‘I was the first person to discover that if you infected a person with Marmite, he would stand up and bark at the moon.” “Everybody under the age of 35 has the intelligence of raspberry jam.” “Children can hear vegetables hiding.”
There’s nothing King Couer-de-Loup likes more than a good battle: “We’ll march on King Florizel’s wet and wicked army,” he proclaims. His Queen is not so sure, however. She would rather her husband stayed around: there’s the christening of their daughter Princess Aurora to arrange for a start. And he certainly can’t go out and fight looking like that: “Your chain mail’s got a ladder in it,” she wails.
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