There is an art to being all things to all people because the potential dilution of what is being offered by that jack of all trades' impression is definitely not the intention.

In the food sphere, it is a clever restaurant that manages to achieve the right balance - and I can happily report that Hicks brasserie, at the Cotswold House Hotel in the beautiful honey-coloured Gloucestershire town of Chipping Campden, can be counted among them.

Hicks is at the hub of this luxury hotel, and of the town, serving up exactly what you desire, all through the day, and appealing to hotel guests, townspeople and those passing through, in equal measure.

In fact, such is the allure of this chic dining venue, I think it is worth a special trip out into the Cotswold countryside - about an hour from Oxford - to sample what is on offer. In the morning, that could be a cafetiere of coffee and a pastry while you peruse the papers, crusty bread and olives while you enjoy a glass or two of wine at lunchtime or, moving up a gear, a couple of light and delicious courses for those who really need to refuel at midday. In the afternoon, enjoy tea and scones, and as it grows dark, dip into Hicks innovative menu for a delicious three-course dinner.

Chef John Sherry has recently taken the helm in the kitchen at Hicks, and the Cotswold House Hotel, including the fine dining restaurant, Juliana's.

He comes with impeccable credentials, including several years working in top kitchens in France. John takes great pride in offering a menu inspired by the food of Cotswold producers, be that wholesome breads, locally-churned cheeses, home-reared meats, vegetables from the lush Vale of Evesham, or jams and preserves from a farm kitchen.

My companion and I were fortunate enough to sample John's menu when we visited for lunch recently, and there were lots of interesting options - in fact, it's a while since I have been so indecisive about what I wanted to savour.

Hicks makes a favourable first impression - light and airy with contemporary furnishings and fittings, including a huge glass window looking over an internal courtyard. It was already buzzing with diners as we were seated at 12.30pm on a warm Saturday in early September, and quickly served with drinks and crusty bread with butter and tapenade to nibble while we perused the menu.

You could choose the prix fixe menu offering two courses for £14.95, or three for £19.50, but we made our selection from the á la carte menu.

I found the starter the most difficult choice. Sweetcorn chowder with mussels and gingerbread was a fascinating combo - but I surmised it would be too filling - while fried eggs on toast with chilli, coriander, spring onions and black pudding just sounded like fun!

I chose the starter-sized version of the home-smoked salmon salad, and it was much enjoyed, garnished with crushed new potatoes, capers and shallots.

My friend went for the carpaccio of salted beef, which she described as excellent - and it certainly looked appetising, with the unusual finishing touches of parmesan sauce and pickled walnuts.

My main course was juicy garlic and thyme chicken, sliced over caponata bursting with tomatoes and olives, and just-cooked tagliatelle. The portion size was spot on, and it was most enjoyable.

My friend went for a heartier option - a sliced and pink roast rump of Lighthorne Lamb, with a confit of the shoulder and a cassoulet of beans. She proclaimed it excellent.

A group of diners nearby were all tucking into the Hicks 8oz burger, with chunky chips, and it was definitely going down well. Eggs seem to be a popular feature - other mains included smoked haddock with a grain mustard risotto, soft poached egg and beetroot coulis, and braised ham hock with potato rosti, crushed peas and fried egg.

Could we manage a pudding? Well, yes, of course we could! A winning combination of sour plum compote on sweet toasted brioche with a lemon cream for me and creme brulée with biscotti for her.

We rounded a delightful lunch off with a pot of good coffee, before easing ourselves out of our comfy chairs and into the sunshine, for a potter around Chipping Campden's excellent selection of interesting little shops.

Hicks Brasserie, The Cotswold House Hotel, The Square, Chipping Campden. Call 01386 840330 or visit: www.cotswoldhouse.com

3:43pm Friday 30th November 2007

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